Cosmetic compositions having skin calming and skin regenerating effect and process for the preparation thereof

ABSTRACT

PCT No. PCT/HU86/00034 Sec. 371 Date Jan. 16, 1987 Sec. 102(e) Date Jan. 16, 1987 PCT Filed May 29, 1986 PCT Pub. No. WO86/06958 PCT Pub. Date Dec. 4, 1986.The invention relates to cosmetic compositions having skin calming and regenerating effect comprising the extract of the aerial shoot and/or tuber of Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus L.) as active ingredient.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions having skin calming andskin regenerating effect and a process for the preparation thereof.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

In the cosmetic industry cosmetic compositions containing the extractsof natural substances (plant or animal organs) as active ingredient haveagain become popular.

The so called phytocosmetic compositions which belong to this classcontain the extracts of various plants, mainly of medicinal plants(among others camomile, burdock, cucumber, lemon etc.) or that of thewaste or the valuable parts of the cultivated plants (HU-PS Nos. 178,786and 179,886, DOS No. 2,641,233).

One characteristic feature of tired skin is a decrease of the easilyutilizable sugar content of the cells. According to the GB-PS No.1,286,156 the loss of the natural sugar content of the skin can berecovered by cosmetic compositions which contain mainly glucose andfructose and optionally ribose, dezoxyribose and glucosamine. Thecomposition can be used as a powder or in admixture with the usualcosmetic vehicles.

The aim of the present invention is to prepare cosmetic compositionssuitable for calming and regenerating tired, dry skin.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

During our experiments it has been surprisingly found that the extractof Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus L.) is suitable for theabove purpose.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions having skin calming andregenerating effect comprising the extract of the aerial shoot and/ortuber of Jerusalem artichoke as active ingredient together with theusual vehicles and/or diluents and optionally other known additives.

Jerusalem artichoke is a tuberous plant belonging to the compositae, thetuber of which in contrast to the potato does not contain starch but itcontains inulin as reserve nutriment. The inulin content of the tuber isabout 14 to 16 %. Due to the inulin content of the tubers Jerusalemartichoke is generally used in the food and distilling industry becausein the course of the acidic hydrolysis of inulin mainly D-fructose andabout 6 % D-glucose are formed. The hydrolysis of inulin takes placefaster and more easily than that of potato starch. The hydrolysis takesplace also in diluted acetic acid but it is enough to boil the tubers inwater for some hours.

The other characteristic feature of Jerusalem artichoke is that in thecourse of its growth season fungus infections are only rarely observableand the rare infections do not spread (I. Izso, The Jerusalem artichoke,Akademiai Kiado, Budapest, 1955). Based on this observation we haveexamined the extracts of the aerial shoots and it has been found thatthe extracts show a considerable fungicidal activity against severalfungi.

According to the invention extracts are prepared from the aerial shootand/or tuber of Jerusalem artichoke and the extracts were usedseparately or in combination as active ingredients of cosmeticcompositions. During our experiments it has been found that the extractof the aerial shoot and the syrup prepared from the tuber as well astheir combination are remarkably suitable for calming and regeneratingtired skin and for treating certain inflammatory conditions.

The favorable effects of the compositions of the invention were examinedin the following way.

The face tonic (Example 7) was examined on 50 women aged from 20 to 63years. It was applied after thorough cleaning twice daily, in themorning and in the evening. The treatment was continued for two weeks.The following types of the face skin were examined: 40 slightly dry, 10sensitive dry skins. The tonic has been absorbed well during eachtreatment, the skin became smooth, velvety. During the treatment noallergic reaction, irritative dermatitis or hypersensitivity wereobserved.

The body lotion (Example 5) was tested on 22 women aged from 19 to 72years. The lotion was applied after thorough washing twice daily, in themorning and in the evening. The treatment was continued for two weeks.The following types of skin were examined: 2 normal sensitive, 4 drysensitive, 8 dry and 8 normal skins. The composition has been absorbedwell during each treatment, the skin became velvety, smooth, the skintightening and dryness which occurred after washing (having a bath orshower bath) stopped and the skin was calmed and refreshed. No allergicreaction, irritative dermatitis or hypersensitivity were observed.

The extract of the aerial shoots and the syrup prepared from the tubercan be mixed with the usual cosmetic vehicles and diluents as well aswith other known active ingredients e.g. antibiotics, disinfectants, forexample propolis and thereby stable compositions are formed.

The compositions are prepared in the following way:

(a) the cleaned and crushed aerial shoot of Jerusalem artichoke isextracted with a 1 to 10-fold amount of water and/or alcohol at atemperature between room temperature and the boiling point of themixture for from 12 to 168 hours, then the mixture is cooled andfiltered, the filtrate (solid substance content is generally about from0.2 to 6.0 %) is mixed with the usual cosmetic vehicles and/or diluents,preferably with natural fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, emulsifying agents,perfume substances and optionally with other known additives, preferablywater binding agents, disinfectants and antibacterial agents and theconsistence of the composition thus obtained is adjusted with distilledwater and/or alcohol or

(b) the washed and sliced tuber of Jerusalem artichoke is extracted withwater, the extract is filtered, the filtrate is boiled for from 0.5 to10 hours, the solution thus obtained is filtered, the filtrate is mixedwith the usual cosmetic vehicles and/or diluents, preferably withnatural fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, emulsifying agents, perfumesubstances, and optionally with other known additives, preferably waterbinding agents, vitamins and antibacterial agents and the consistence ofthe composition thus obtained is adjusted with distilled water.

If desired the extracts prepared according to the processes (a) and (b)are mixed in a volume ratio between 0.5:1.0 and 2.0:20.0 and thecombination is used as active ingredient in cosmetic compositions.

The following non-limiting Examples show the composition of theinvention and the preparation of the active ingredient.

EXAMPLE 1

Preparation of an aqueous extract from the aerial shoots of Jerusalemartichoke

1 kg of the cleaned and washed aerial shoot of Jerusalem artichoke isstirred for 8 hours in 10 litres of water at 90° C. Then the mixture isfiltered and the filtrate is stored under cooling, protected from lightand air.

EXAMPLE 2

Preparation of an alcoholic extract from the aerial shoot of Jerusalemartichoke

1 kg of cleaned and washed aerial shoot of Jerusalem artichoke isallowed to stand for 4 days in 4 litres of 70 % aqueous ethanol. Themixture is stirred several times daily, then after 4 days it is filteredand the filtrate is stored under cooling, protected from light and air.

EXAMPLE 3

Preparation of an extract - syrup - from the tuber of Jerusalemartichoke

1 kg of the washed and sliced tuber of Jerusalem artichoke is extractedwith 10 litres of water for 12 hours and the extract is filtered. To thefiltrate 25 ml of acetic acid are added and the solution is boiled for30 minutes. Then it is allowed to cool, filtered and stored undercooling.

EXAMPLE 4

    ______________________________________                                        Cream                                                                         ______________________________________                                        Components                                                                    Extract of Example 1    25.0   g                                              Cetyl alcohol           3.5    g                                              Vaseline oil (cosmetic quality)                                                                       8.0    g                                              Propylene glycol        5.0    g                                              BRIJ J21                3.5    g                                              Ethanol (96%)           4.0    g                                              Nipagine                0.2    g                                              Stearic acid            4.0    g                                              Distilled water         46.8   g                                              ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 5

    ______________________________________                                        Body lotion                                                                   ______________________________________                                        Components                                                                    Extract of Example 1   22.0   g                                               Oleum helianthi        2.5    g                                               Glycerol               3.5    g                                               Geranium oil           0.2    g                                               Nipagine               0.2    g                                               Sodium dodecylsulfate  0.6    g                                               Cetyl alcohol          5.0    g                                               Paraffin oil           2.0    g                                               Distilled water        44.0   g                                               ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 6

    ______________________________________                                        Cream                                                                         ______________________________________                                        Component                                                                     Extract of Example 1    21.0   g                                              Extract of Example 3    3.5    g                                              Cetyl alcohol           1.0    g                                              BRIJ J2                 2.3    g                                              Vaseline oil (cosmetic quality)                                                                       8.0    g                                              Ethanol (96%)           6.0    g                                              Nipagine                0.2    g                                              Isopropyl palmitate     6.0    g                                              Distilled water         52.0   g                                              ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 7

    ______________________________________                                        Cream                                                                         ______________________________________                                        Components                                                                    Extract of Example 2    25.5   g                                              Extract of Example 3    4.0    g                                              Erythromycin base       2.0    g                                              Cetyl alcohol           1.5    g                                              Vaseline oil (cosmetic quality)                                                                       7.5    g                                              Ethanol (96%)           4.5    g                                              Nipagine                0.2    g                                              Propylene glycol        5.0    g                                              Distilled water         49.8   g                                              ______________________________________                                    

EXAMPLE 8

    ______________________________________                                        Face tonic                                                                    ______________________________________                                        Components                                                                    Extract of Example 2   27.0   g                                               Propylene glycol       8.0    g                                               Tween 20               0.5    g                                               Ethanol (96%)          64.3   g                                               Perfume oil            0.2    g                                               ______________________________________                                    

We claim:
 1. A cosmetic composition having a skin-calming andskin-regenerating effect comprising as active ingredient, an aqueous oralcoholic extract of the aerial shoot, tuber, or aerial shoot and tuberof a Jerusalem artichoke in an amount of 1.0 to 50% together with apharmaceutically acceptable topical inert carrier or diluent.
 2. Thecosmetic composition having a skin-calming and skin-regenerating effectdefined in claim 1 further comprising a water-binding agent.
 3. Thecosmetic composition having a skin-calming and skin-regenerating effectdefined in claim 1 further comprising a vitamin.
 4. The cosmeticcomposition having a skin-calming and skin-regenerating effect definedin claim 1 further comprising a disinfectant.
 5. The cosmeticcomposition having a skin-calming and skin-regenerating effect definedin claim 1 further comprising an antibacterial agent.
 6. The cosmeticcomposition having a skin-calming and skin-regeneratig effect defined inclaim 1 comprising as active ingredient a mixture of the extracts of theaerial shoot and tuber of the Jerusalem artichoke wherein the volumeratio of the extract of the aerial shoot to that of the tuber is between0.5:1.0 and 2.0:20.0.
 7. A process for the preparation of a cosmeticcomposition having a skin-calming and skin-regenerating effect whichcomprises the steps of:(a) cleaning and crushing aerial shoots ofJerusalem artichoke; (b) extracting the cleaned and crushed aerialshoots of Jerusalem artichoke with a 1 to 10 fold amount of water,ethanol, or a mixture of water and ethanol, at a temperature betweenroom temperature and the boiling point of the mixture for 12 to 168hours; (c) cooling the extract; (d) filtering the extract to obtain afiltrate; and (e) combining the filtrate with a pharmaceuticallyacceptable inert carrier or diluent.
 8. A process for the preparation ofa cosmetic composition having a skin-calming and skin-regeneratingeffect which comprises the steps of:(a) washing and slicing a tuber ofJerusalem artichoke; (b) extracting the washed and sliced Jerusalemartichoke with water; (c) filtering the extract formed during step (b)to obtain a filtrate; (d) boiling the filtrate for 0.5 to 10 hours; (e)filtering the boiled filtrate to obtain a second filtrate; and (f)combining the second filtrate with a pharmaceutically acceptable inertcarrier or diluent.
 9. A method of treating the skin of a susceptiblesubject to impart a velvety and smooth texture thereto, said methodcomprising the step of applying to the skin a cosmetic compositioncontaining an effective amount of an aqueous or alcoholic extract of theaerial shoot or tuber of the Jerusalem artichoke in a plurality ofapplications.
 10. The method defined in claim 9 wherein said extract isa mixture of an extract of said aerial shoot with an extract of saidtuber.